Finally Arriving in the Exumas

We left Eleuthera on January 11th and had a beautiful sail to the Exumas. We were really excited for this next step. The Exumas are what you think of when you envision the beautiful sand and turquoise sea of the Bahamas. We even got a chance to fly the kite again, mainly because Mike can't get out of racing mode and he didn't want any of the catamarans to beat us there.

Wild Rover's huge Spinnaker

We arrived Highborne Cay that afternoon and anchored off the west side. It was a beautiful island with nice sandy beaches but it is somewhat private and only accessible to those staying in the high priced marina. We did allow Bullet to use the beach, as other dog owners seemed to be doing, and we even saw a couple of tour boats access the beach. So I guess it was OK, but we decided not to stay too long. It was nice to see the number of cruising boats increase but we were anxious to move south to warmer waters. This was our first time seeing some of the super (>80 ft) and mega (>200 ft) yachts. There are a ton of them here this year since many islands in the Caribbean are still closed due to COVID. We had heard that many of the NFL owners were around on their yachts after a New YearsEve meeting at Staniel Cay. We did see the 100 meter yacht owned by a certain owner of the team from North Texas.

NFL Owned Mega Yacht

While there we took a long dinghy ride up to Allen and Leaf Cays to see the iguanas. Leaf Cay is home to tons of large iguanas. They are used to visitors and come running for food. We got our pictures and explored the area by dinghy. We walked a beautiful beach on Little Allen Cay but were chased away by some HUGE iguanas.

Iguanas on Leaf Cay

On the 13th we sailed to Shroud Cay. Unfortunately on our sail in we had some engine troubles. We broke a belt that ran the water pump for the engine and overheated. We ended up sailing onto a mooring ball. Surprisingly it went relatively smoothly. We sent Mikey ahead in the dinghy to help us capture the painter and get it secure. It was good practice for all of us. Luckily we didn't destroy the engine but the replacement belt Mike had didn't seem to be the right size, of course. He ordered new ones from the states and had them flown by Makers Air to Staniel Cay where we'd be headed in a few days.

Shroud Cay is an uninhabited mangrove island group inside the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The 176 sq. mile Exuma Cays Land and Sea National Park, created in 1958, was the first land and sea park in the world and is one of the most successful marine parks. It is the first no-take reserve (all fishing is prohibited) in the Caribbean. This stretch of pristine water, land and beaches is an ecological preserve and wildlife refuge famous for its breathtaking marine environment.

View from Camp Driftwood

Shroud is the most beautiful spot I have seen thus far. The mangrove islands form little rivers all throughout the group. Most are only open to nonmotorized craft but the north most river is open to dinghies. We explored the river and saw many fish, rays and turtles. The mangroves are a breeding ground for all the sea life. At the end of the river you arrive at the Exuma Sound side of the island. The Sound side of the islands can be as rough as if they were ocean side with crashing waves, high cliffs, and breathtaking beaches. We beached the dinghy and took a short hike up to Camp Driftwood for a picnic. Camp Driftwood is the highest point of the cay and has fantastic views all around the island. The camp was built in the 1960s by Ernest Scholtes but little remains today. Back on the beach we decided to swim the 'Washing Machine'. The Washing Machine is a whirlpool created by the mangrove river meeting the Exuma Sound. At certain tides the water swirls around and is a great swim spot. We spent a few hours jumping in and circling around. It was a fun and relaxing day after the craziness of our engine problems.

Turtles Shroud Cay

We also found a small sand bar that became a favorite spot of Bullet. He loved running, digging, and playing in the sand. It's so fun to see him acting like a puppy and we are so happy that he is enjoying cruising life.

Bullet loving the sandbar

On the 15th, we sailed off our mooring and headed to Warderick Wells. Mike managed to attach the spare belt but was concerned that it didn't fit perfectly so our goal was to sail only. Unfortunately Warderick Wells north anchorage, where we were headed, has a deep channel that circles the harbor surrounded by sandbars. You are required to use their mooring balls here and must reserve them a day in advance, there is no anchoring allowed. Our sail was easy and uneventful and we soon arrived at the entrance to the harbor. We received our mooring ball number, luckily it was only the 4th one in, and sailed on. We had previously met the Park Warden, Pete, who knew we would be sailing in, so we knew we probably had an audience up in the park office. We sent Mikey ahead in the dinghy to assist. The deep canal is very narrow and we had to avoid the boats already moored. We did have to use the engine right at the end to avoid a catamaran but we safely caught our mooring ball.

View of Warderick Wells from Boo Boo Hill

Warden Pete was headed to Staniel Cay for his COVID test and was nice enough to take Mike down to pick up the new belts. While the belts are a bit wide for the pully, we have a functioning engine again. Once back in the US we will have proper belts/pulleys installed.

Wild Rover from Boo Boo Hill

You are probably tired of me saying all these places are beautiful, but seriously each island is so unique and I just fall in love with each new one. I look outside the boat each and everyday amazed by the beauty of nature and thankful for this opportunity. Warderick Wells harbor was amazing. A well protected harbor surrounded by sandbars with a deep channel cut through. Of course this means lots of current too. Warderick Wells is known for Boo Boo Hill. A short hike from the harbor, sailors have been leaving their mark here for years. We left ours as well. Its also rumored that you can get a cell signal on Boo Boo Hill. Mike tried and tried but was never successful.

We left our mark on Boo Boo Hill

A small portion of the signs at Boo Boo Hill

After 3 nights we headed for Cambridge Cay. Here we snorkeled the aquarium, a small area known for its abundant sea life. We saw tons of fish and coral. It is a beautiful place to snorkel. On the way back to the boat we checked out a submerged plane. Unfortunately the current here was crazy so we had to hold onto the mooring balls and just view it from above. Cambridge also has a few nice hikes. The paths are lined with conch shells to keep you on the correct path to ensure you don't damage the environment. We hiked to Honeymoon Beach on the south side of the island. It was a nice hike through the small palm trees. The beach is beautiful and pretty much untouched. Unfortunately it was too rough to do more snorkeling. We will definitely be back. Next up, the lower Exumas.

We are happy to finally be in the Exumas and seeing more boats. We are meeting lots of other cruisers and hearing some great stories about how they got here. Most people are still pretty shocked by our story, which is to be expected. We are definitely starting to understand why most cruisers own their boat for awhile before heading out. It takes time to figure out the systems, fix old parts and buy spares, etc. Its so much easier to do that in the states and utilize local knowledge and contractors. Here in the Bahamas you are pretty much on your own to fix everything. Mike has become a diesel mechanic, electrician, plumber, general problem solver and sometimes even bartender. We are very lucky that he is so handy.